Why Jean Paul Gaultier surged ahead in 2023

A staple of the fragrances category for decades, Jean Paul Gaultier (JPG) had only been growing slowly in recent years: its seasonal TV-aided 2021 search spike was barely higher than its 2004 equivalent.

But things changed in 2023 when JPG became a darling of TikTok, leading to steep growth in both search and site traffic ⬇️.

Adding credence to the direct role of TikTok are the twin facts that (i) JPG’s growth was much steeper in English-language markets, and (ii) most of JPG’s TikTok posts and top comment activity were in English.

How did JPG do it?

Three types of branded activity shape consumer decisions on social, and most of JPG’s growth was fuelled by the 3rd type:

1. Owned posts can be an effective way to activate communities (Sol de Janeiro, Rhode, Porsche, Loewe etc.), but it wasn’t a key source of fuel for JPG

2. Earned that is seen by viewers as incentivised in any way can still play a role (awareness, consideration), but it was only a small share of JPG’s total social footprint

3. Organic Earned posts are those that viewers think are impartial, and hence trustworthy. Most of them are indeed not solicited by brands, but the result of earlier investments that act as fertiliser: e.g., sampling, sizing/pricing, distribution, ‘merch,’ events, outdoor, collabs, promos, packaging or even product features (e.g. vanilla scents in 2022/2023) can all initiate Organic Earned posts.

These posts have always been around, but because (i) TikTok allows anyone to go viral if the content is loved, and (ii) consumers today love ‘independent’ information, the weight of organic earned in the social equation is much greater today (mostly on TT, but increasingly so on IG).

How JPG’s organic earned ballooned:

(A) It starts with solid fundamentals:

• A good pre-existing fit with the 14-29 cohort, who our data shows post more often and post more engaging content

• Distinctive bottles creating stronger memory structures, esp. with category newbies overwhelmed by choice (also see Good Girl)

• A broad line-up for both genders, multiplying reasons to try, review and post about

• Important launches in 2023/4 than peers (Elixir, Paradise Garden)

• Low levels of paid endorsements may grow authenticity, appeal*

(B) Broad distribution with TikTok-savvy online retailers, many of them selling only minis & samples. This grows penetration while multiplying UGC opportunities with younger, lower budget consumers keen to take part on social & review.

Note that these retailers’ content virality often relies on ambiguity: many viewers’ first impression of the content is that it is from knowledgeable creators providing independent information, not retailers trying to sell them products.

Keyword data confirms that this new stable of “retailers,” many focusing on samples and sets, play a major role in JPG’s online ecosystem:

Many fast growing brands now use the same approach, but JPG was a pioneer and could be found at most of these merchants.

(C) As brands build momentum, they get included for free in more multi-product videos (rankings, ratings, routines, hauls, empties, etc.). Savvy creators like GodParfum understand that featuring highly searched products grows views and recruits new followers.

Similarly, affiliates tend to make most revenue from a few best selling products (the 80/20 rule), so they end up posting much more often about popular brands like JPG, simply to improve chances of revenues.

(D) With #TikTokMadeMeBuyIt totalling well over 100 billion views, creators with affiliate relationships are often tempted to bend the rules by endorsing products without proper disclosure in the post itself. They know better than anyone that as soon as markers like “commission paid” are included the performance drops sharply.

(E) Last, while TV-led Christmas growth is usually followed by a drop in demand in Jan, data suggests that JPG’s December purchases became the source material for future UGC content 🌀. These virtuous cycles highlight the size of the prize of winning over socially active consumers keen to showcase their purchases.

JPG’s strategy has worked spectacularly well, but we recommend that teams not rely just on the above***. Instead, teams should master an array of touchpoints and skills, both on- and off-social.

Get some examples of winning offline tactics here, and some top content inspiration here.

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*It arguably helps that many Gen Zs don’t watch TV at all.

**Even ‘old school’ retailers like Macy’s understood the power of this retailer/creator ‘strategic ambiguity,’ as employees post about popular brands like JPG on their personal accounts . (#MacysStyleCrew)

***the above playbook still works in 2024, but we expect that parts of it will be blunted by growing clutter

About the author: 20+ years experience in insights & marketing mix at P&G, marketing & media consultancy at McKinsey, head of Europe at L2, co-founder at eBench and Rethink x Social. Have worked with over 250 clients teams across 100+ companies in a dozen categories.

About Rethink x Social: we’re a boutique marketing consultancy, backed by our proprietary tool that tracks and analyses hundreds of thousands of accounts, surfacing insights on trends, best practices, category leaders, and content excellence. We help clients on everything from investment priorities, to social strategies. Our most recent R&D emphasis has been on video content codes, tackling tone of voice, storytelling/editing/pacing principles, the roles of subtext, sounds, protagonists, content big ideas.